The natural dyes, which have now been in revival
for decades, have many well documented benefits. They produce,
in tandem with the handspun wool, a slight variation in the
color, a kind of “abrash”, (which in the classical designs
is not overly exaggerated, instead is almost subliminal) also they are
very lightfast and colorfast, and rather than fading over time,
there is a very subtle harmonious warming, reinforcing their
inherent chromatic harmony. This is because on a molecular
level, the colors from the natural sources, the madder and weld
and indigo, are not uniform, they contain elements of other
the colors within them, which enables them to better blend with each
other. It is much more difficult to make a consistent color
batch without chemical formulas, but Classical Carpets has the
benefits of the skills of their experienced Master Dyer, Mustafa.
Chris says “His work is truly magical. As we make each carpet
individually, this makes each carpet that we make, slightly
different in coloration, and absolutely unique. And of course
the natural dyes are less toxic and less harmful to the
environment.”
Another detail that some might think minor, but
which Chris says is critical, is the black yarn outlines. |
When he was first drawing the carpets,
there was a puzzle he couldn’t figure out The major
geometrical shapes are outlined in black yarn, to emphasize
them, and also guide the weavers. In the older carpets it often
seemed like the outlines would only take up half a knot, which
seemed to be impossible, and challenging in terms of drawing the
geometry. But then, after working with the natural dyes, Chris
learned that many black dyes use iron oxides, which over time
disintegrate the yarn.
Chris says “So in the old carpets we weren’t
seeing half knots, but rather disintegrated knots! And in
making our carpets, when we used non corrosive natural dye that
gave us a real black, it was too strong, while a very dark brown
dye, didn’t feel right either, it wasn’t dark enough.”
They now use a naturally dark sheep's wool, which
they dye several times with indigo, and then in the outlines
they often hand shear this black a millimeter or two shorter than the
rest of the pile, so they have the strong black of the outline,
with a non corrosive dye, but set back literally just a hair. |